What I really wanted to do was walk alone over these places and kinda of soak up the vibes, but I couldn't do that as I had to go on an organised tour with an Italian guide, who explained all the history from the European point of view. What's more she rushed us along with great pace, with no time to stop and stare, much less wander at will, and she bombarded us with information, which was mostly VERY VERY dull.
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